I Stayed at Motoyu Geto – A Hidden Hot Spring Lodge in Iwate
I stayed at Motoyu Geto, a member of the Association to Preserve Japan’s Hidden Hot Springs, located in Kitakami City, Iwate Prefecture!
This remote onsen inn is open only during the warmer months and closes in winter due to heavy snowfall. The location is so secluded that the inn’s official website even includes a warning for those unsure of their driving skills—it’s that deep in the mountains with narrow, winding roads barely wide enough for one car.
Although I rented a car, I wasn’t confident driving on those roads, so I took the shuttle bus provided by the inn. It departs from Kitakami Station and takes about 45 minutes. I’m so glad I booked the bus in advance—the roads were super narrow and winding!
The inn itself feels more like a rustic mountain lodge than a traditional ryokan. It’s divided into a ryokan wing and a more casual toji (healing stay) section, with more rooms in the latter. I stayed in the main ryokan building this time.
There’s no TV or Wi-Fi, and if you’re with SoftBank, you’ll be out of range. AU had some signal. It’s the perfect place for a digital detox. With no distractions, I just soaked in the hot springs, took walks, had naps, ate good food, and then went back to the baths. Heaven!
Seven Different Baths at Motoyu Geto
There are seven hot spring baths in total. Five of them are open-air baths, all with natural spring water bubbling up directly from the ground. Out of these, four are mixed-gender, which can be a bit intimidating for women...
Because the waters are neutral and hygienically maintained, bathing suits and towels aren’t allowed. But don’t worry—there are designated women-only hours for all the mixed baths, so I was able to try them all!
During the ladies-only time, it can get quite crowded since all the female guests rush in at once. But it actually made for a really friendly atmosphere—lots of chatting, laughter, and bonding.
One of the baths, “Oyu,” was so hot I could barely get in! Everyone kept exclaiming “Hot! So hot!”—and that turned into a fun conversation. When a seasoned lady who was clearly a toji pro managed to soak in the scalding water, everyone applauded. Honestly, this was such a unique experience—I’d never stayed at an onsen like this before.
There are two indoor baths as well, both fed directly from the spring. One of them was unbearably hot—I almost burned the soles of my feet just standing next to it! Even the toji veteran lady admitted defeat with a smile.
The other indoor bath was just the right temperature. Since the outdoor baths are closed at night, I soaked in the indoor one before bed and fell asleep warm and relaxed. These indoor baths are available 24/7.
Meals Are Simple but Charming
I booked the ryokan wing with dinner and breakfast included. Meals were served in a big dining hall, and we just found the table with our room number and started eating. No fuss. While not the full-service experience of a typical ryokan, they did bring freshly cooked rice and miso soup to the table.
It was kind of refreshing, honestly—very laid-back and relaxed. I think this vibe is typical of onsen inns that have a toji or self-catering wing. It felt casual and comfortable.
