My Stay at Tohachi Onsen Saiunsou – August 2023
I finally stayed overnight at the legendary Tohachi Onsen Saiunsou, nestled high in the mountains!
The building feels a little... tilted? Probably from the weight of all that snow during winter.
Some areas looked pretty worn out and were patched up with duct tape here and there—totally giving off that mountain lodge vibe.
Many of the windows were warped and couldn’t open, but hey, it added to the rustic charm. Surprisingly comfy, too 😋
One of the best perks of staying overnight? You get access to quiet outdoor baths after the day-trippers have left. Also, no sketchy “wani” dudes lurking around!
The vibe here was super chill, run by energetic older guys who knew what they were doing. Everyone kept a friendly but respectful distance—very comfy.
It made me wonder though… what do these cool grandpas do during winter when the inn is closed? Double jobs? Seasonal resort gigs? 😂 There’s no TV, so my brain had too much free time.
I tried the guest-only outdoor bath, but oddly, the water level was low. Maybe because not many people use it? A bunch of bugs were having a spa day of their own 😅
They say if you soak here during sunrise, you can witness a glorious view... But the weather didn’t cooperate, and the morning was gloomy. So off I went to the mixed-gender bath instead.
Surprisingly, it was already packed! Everyone was up early for the sunrise attempt ☀️
Meals were buffet-style, homemade and simple but full of warmth. Nothing fancy, just really good comfort food.
We all dined together in the large hall—it was lively and fun.
Pro tip: If you arrive late, some dishes might be gone. Gotta make that buffet sprint! 💨
Also, their hot spring boiled eggs were insanely good. Soft, slightly sulfur-scented yolks—perfect with sake 🥚🍶
Breakfast was also buffet-style. And yes, everyone was up early again!
Tohachi Onsen is one of the highest-altitude hot springs in Tohoku and part of the Hachimantai hot spring region.
It’s only open seasonally—closed from November through April—so make sure to visit in the warmer months.
I’d been here before just for the day, but this time I stayed overnight, hoping to catch the sunrise from the baths 🌄
And oh yes, that mixed outdoor bath is truly something special!
The indoor bath was nice and old-school too. But yeah… you can’t come here and skip the rotenburo!
Hot spring bubbles naturally rise from the bottom of the bath—it’s self-flowing from beneath!
The baths feel like they were just built over wherever the hot water popped up. There are different tubs all over the place.
Each has slightly different temperatures and mud textures. Some spots are scalding hot, so be careful.
They allow bathing suits in the outdoor baths, which is super helpful for women. The water’s cloudy anyway, so no worries once you're in.
Guests were a mix—couples, friend groups, solo travelers, even international visitors. Love to see it 💕
I did spot a “wani” type guy (a little too friendly with solo women and very... proud of his body 🐊), but once I moved to a faraway tub, it was fine.
The bath floor is a mix of rocks, mud, and sand—totally chaotic but in a good way. I even scooped up some warm mud for a DIY face pack 🤍
Some of the cooler tubs were perfect for long soaks… though the midday sun was brutal 🥵
Later in the day, mist rolled in and turned the whole area into a mystical wonderland. It felt like I stepped into another realm.
Sadly, no sunrise view again because of the fog. But still, such a memorable experience.
Tohachi Onsen Saiunsou Day Trip Report – October 2022
Located at an altitude of 1,400 meters in Hachimantai, Iwate Prefecture, this is the highest open-air hot spring in Tohoku!
While driving the scenic Hachimantai Jukai Line, this lone inn suddenly appears on a curve. Parking is right in front.
I checked in at the front desk, where a few cheerful older staff members welcomed me with lively banter 😄
Since the outdoor bath is mixed-gender, I bought a bathing dress they sell at the reception.
The water’s muddy, so I figured a bath towel might be a bad idea (lol)
After paying the fee, I headed to the indoor bath to change clothes.
The indoor bath was dimly lit with beautifully aged wooden tubs—so atmospheric!
The water was a clear sulfur spring, slightly hot but perfect for warming up.
An older lady staff member even came by to check the temperature and chatted with me for a bit. Sweet!
Once warmed up, I headed to the massive outdoor bath.
There were several tubs spread out, and I tried the one closest to the women’s entrance.
A couple was already enjoying the bath, playfully applying mud on each other. So cute.
Thanks to the bathing dress, I could join in without feeling awkward. It’s perfect for a hot spring date!
I ended up doing a solo mud pack and had such a fun time 💕
This place is awesome.
I’d love to come back someday with a partner and stay overnight for that sunrise mud bath experience…
Since the inn closes in winter, maybe next spring?
